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I had heard about the magnificent Thang Hen Lake in Cao Bang
Province a long time ago but the 300km distance from Ha Noi had always deterred
me from going.
By chance, last month I found myself in a group of five travellers going to the
northern province and was able to see the famous lake, which mesmerised us with
its beautiful sapphire-blue surface.
Located in Tra Linh District, just 25km from the provincial capital, Thang Hen
Lake was definitely as beautiful as I had heard.
A small boat sailed my group around the lake and the deep blue water was a
window into world of sea creatures. The only thing that prevented me from
enjoying the beauty of the peaceful lake was the noise from the engine so I
asked the navigator to stop it for a while.
When he did this, we could hear the sounds of the different creatures around the
lake, small birds singing and the sound of water as we glided through the lake.
We also had a chance to hear a local musician who played a song which reflected
his feelings about the area.
Tran Viet Soi was born in the district more than 50 years ago and has lived in
the province since then. He thinks the beauty of the lake has softened his soul
allowing him to become a musician.
Soi, who belongs to Tay ethnic people, said Thang Hen Lake means "fox tail" and
was named so due to the elongated, oval shape of the lake, according to the
history of his ethnic group.
Thang Hen is a mountain lake comprised of 36 different lakes that stretch for
3km in length. During the rainy season, the water level of the lakes rises,
linking them all together. The surrounding mountains stand up to 660m above sea
level, and are covered in green foliage and tall trees, which are reflected on
the water's surface.
While Soi entertained us with a sweet song played on a local music instrument
that looked like a guitar, the boat glided along the lake, allowing us to catch
the best views of the surrounding mountains which were mirrored by the water's
surface.
The navigator again turned off the boat engine as we entered a small cave at the
base of a mountain known as Thang Hen Cave. Its large opening gave way to a
ceiling of stalactites, silhouetted against the lake's surface, which runs into
the cave. These shapes give the dark cave a strange atmosphere, as do the plants
growing on the rocks.
Fishing is popular here and fishermen can be seen on the water's edge, casually
casting a line and relaxing under the shade of an umbrella.
One member of my group shouted that he felt bad for forgetting his hook at home
on such an occasion. I selfishly enjoyed the feeling of doing nothing but
sitting on the moving boat and watching the amazing scenery in front of me.
Around the lake, the thick, green forest is set against the blue sky. Soi told
us that the surrounding forestland was full of local wildlife and many species
of insects, and advised us to bring bug repellent should we venture into the
forest.
Lake specialities
The Huong Thom restaurant and hotel are located at the Thang Hen Lake precinct
and were built in the architectural style of ethnic stilt houses made of nghien
hard wood which is abundant in the area.
This is the only facility providing visitors with food and accommodation close
to the lake, and has been praised by local people as one of the best restaurants
offering Cao Bang cuisine.
Before coming we knew the restaurant was famous for wild bamboo shoots, special
sticky rice, and a special kind of leaf called mac mat – a speciality of the
northern mountain area which has a strange scent.
Restaurant owner Huong Thom introduced us to one type of cuisine of which she is
particularly proud: a small wooden container full of three different coloured
varieties of sticky rice. The colours of the dish were all from the same plant,
which was cooked with local sticky rice.
Accompanying the delicious and colourful meal was the famous maize wine that is
kept in a bamboo tube and serving with two spoons, which amazed our group.
According to local tradition, each drinker must have two spoonfuls, and drink
one while offering the other to someone else. This drinking ceremony signified
the hospitality and strong relationship between the host and the guest and after
drinking you must shake hands.
It can be a tough trip to the lake from the capital, but enjoying the natural
scenery and culture around the lake makes it worthwhile. Like me, you can lie in
a boat and soak up the view of the stunning chain of limestone mountains and
experience a perfect meal with special way of drinking.
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