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Stepping out of the mini bus, surrounded by huge hills and lush
green fields stretching as far as the eyes can see, the first thing I noticed
was the significant improvement in the air quality. Although there are still
many motorbikes darting about, I felt as if I could once again breathe!
Mai Chau (Vietnamese: Mai Châu) is located in Hoa Binh province in the
northwestern part of Vietnam, approximately 160Km from Hanoi. There is an
estimated 48,570 inhabitants including 7 Ethnic Minority groups. ‘White Thai’, ‘H’Mong’,’Zao’,’Muong’,’Tay’,’Hoa’,
and ‘Viet’. Mai Chau consists mainly of the ‘White Thai’ people.
As you approach Mai Chau you will have the chance to view the village from afar.
From the top of Cun Mountain you will be blown away with the superb panorama of
Mai Chau, nestled, snugly between two towering cliffs and surrounded by lush
emerald green paddy fields, the sight is truly enchanting so make sure you have
cameras at the ready.
If you are looking for a get away from the busy and crowded hustle of Hanoi, you
may have just found it. Mai Chau would be ideal for travelers seeking an
authentic Vietnamese experience with the option of ‘Home Stay’, available in two
of the ‘White Thai’, villages nearby. Ban Pom Coong and Ban Lac are both run by
the ethnic minority families who have lived and worked the land for generations.
‘Home Stays’, purpose is to give an insight into the lives of the local people
and the structure and cost of the stay is almost exactly the same in both
villages. I did however find Ban Lac to be the more developed of the two as Ban
Lac boasts more gift shops and a busier ‘night life, what there is of it
anyway!’
The housing is traditional wooden buildings sat on top of stilts. For your ‘Home
Stay’, you can expect large communal rooms on the second floor where mats will
be laid down on top of the squeaky, split bamboo flooring. The ‘White Thai’, are
very conscious of hygiene and cleanliness so remember to leave footwear outside
at all times. Although it is very basic and simple accommodation, you will find
western style toilets, hot water and in some houses satellite television
installed. The cost will set you back around 150,000VND and for this price you
will enjoy an evening meal prepared and cooked for you by the locals, a bed for
the night and also breakfast the following morning. Sitting down for dinner with
the ‘White Thai’, is a truly warming experience, their hospitality really is
second to none.
While living with the locals you will be sure to see some of their old
traditions and customs. Green tea would be offered to guests, especially by the
man of the house and it would be common for the female (usually an older lady),
to offer you the chance to blacken your teeth by chewing ‘Betel’! A betel chew
is made up of several ingredients: betel leaf, slivers of areca palm nut and a
bit of lime paste. The pieces of nut covered with lime paste are wrapped in a
leaf of the betel pepper vine, making a tiny package that fits neatly into the
pouch of the cheek. Although teeth look unsightly to us, tooth blackening
prevents tooth decay. Those who have had their teeth blackened maintain a full
set of teeth longer than those who have not undergone the process. Teeth
blackening may prolong life by maintaining the capacity to enjoy a wholesome
diet.
I was fortunate enough to visit and stay at ‘Mai Chau Lodge’, courtesy of Ms.
Cung Minh Ha who is working alongside the Lodge. The occasion was 125 years of
tourism in Hoa Binh Province and we attended to show our support.
An elegant building with 16 beautifully designed and decorated rooms located in
the heart of the village looking out onto a spectacular view from every possible
angle, whether it is towards the mountains or the valley. On entry I was
greeted, warmly by the staff. Rest assured, while staying at the lodge they will
see to it that you want for nothing and what’s more, it is always service with a
smile which I believe to be very important.
A mix of local specialties and world cuisines meet in the middle creating a
memorable dining experience. You also have the choice of a fine selection of
wines and spirits or if you are really set on experiencing all things
traditional throughout your stay, go for a bottle of locally produced rice wine.
My personal favorite!
Although in the middle of this basic and undeveloped, picturesque paradise, you
will enjoy comforts including; en-suite bathrooms, hair dryers, air
conditioning, satellite television, telephones and free unlimited internet
connection.
After a day of wandering around the local market and seeing the many weird and
wonderful things for sale or traditional clothing being skillfully woven
operated by the ‘Thai’ women using fascinating homemade machines, I really
enjoyed a dip in the lodges’ swimming pool, a soak in the Jacuzzi and a steam
bath before sprucing up for the evening.
Visiting Mai Chau, I would recommend one night with the locals to quench your
thirst for Vietnamese culture in a peaceful and comfortable atmosphere at the
lodge.
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